CONAMA: challenges and opportunities for textile management

02-06-2021

The textile industry is facing a great opportunity and a world of possibilities to advance in sustainability, resource management and positive transformation. The development of various R & D & I initiatives, the roadmap set by the European Union and the imminent regulatory changes that are approaching as a result of the Waste and Contaminated Soil Law - in full parliamentary processing - represent three of the pillars on The articulate these advances.

This morning an interesting session was held in Madrid within the framework of the CONAMA National Environmental Congress under the title of "Waste from the textile sector." This session began with the round table ‘Sustainable innovation in the textile sector’, in which Rafael Mas, Director of Projects and External Relations of Humana, spoke.

Mas has presented the Simbitex industrial symbiosis project, financed by the Catalan Waste Agency, and developed in collaboration with CESPA GR (Ferrovial Group). Using Simbitex, the flow of used clothing destined for recycling and downcycling was analyzed in order to design a process to optimize its recovery in the closest area, in this case, in Catalonia.

The conclusions of the project indicate that the mechanical recycling of post-consumer textiles is feasible from a technical point of view, following this scheme

  • Characterization by type of garment
  • Characterization by color
  • Removal of non-textile items
  • Trituration
  • Spinning

It is not feasible, on the other hand, from the economic point of view, since the resulting recycled yarn is more expensive than the newly manufactured yarn: for an average weight per garment of 300 grams, the extra cost that each article made with post recycled yarn would have consumption is between 0.20 and 1.13 euros.

In the round table, moderated by Irene Díez, Director of the Ecoalf Foundation, the following have participated:

  • Mariana Gramunt, from Sidikai
  • Núria Nubiola, from Infinite Denim
  • Sofía Domínguez, from Seddi
  • Pilar Tejada, by PYRATES smart fabrics

Debate on the application of extended producer responsibility in the textile sector

This was followed by the second part of the session, which included an exciting one on the application of extended producer responsibility in the textile sector and the constitution of a SCRAP.

During the debate, elements such as deadlines, European objectives and the convenience of disaggregating reuse recycling objectives, regulatory development, environmental taxation, discharge rates, finalist taxes, internalization of environmental costs by producers, the maximum of 'who pollutes pays', the role of the current waste managers, the role of the central administration, the Autonomous Communities and the Town Councils –as competent bodies in waste matters-, green and sustainable public procurement, reserved tenders or traceability, reliable statistics on the volume of waste generated each year.

These are the people who have led the responses on the hot topics raised:

  • Elena Brochalo, Head of Area. SG of Circular Economy. Subdirectorate General for Waste. Ministry for the Ecological Transition and the Demographic Challenge
  • Ricardo Izquierdo, General Director of the Environment and Public Space of the Fuenlabrada City Council
  • Pilar Chiva, Director of Circular Economy of the Waste Agency of Catalonia
  • David Allo, Head of Sustainability at TEXFOR
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